Take 5, Weekly Inspirations.

Finally summer is upon us!  Here's my top five must haves for besides the pool/beach:

1. The perfect swimwear- this is a must!  When wearing so little you have to make sure that what you are fits well and shows your body off in the best possible way.  No one wants any unfortunate slips or badly angled holiday shots!

2. Sunnies- along with your summer bag this is one of your main summer accessories.  Not only do they protect your eyes, but after a long night of partying they do a rather good job of covering those peepers.  Make sure you get the perfect shape and size to enhance your face shape.  For me it's all about the big round sunnies! 

3. Water- it's free and yet we don't appreciate it!  Drink it by the gallon if you can!  It improves your skin, your hair and promotes healthy weight loss and is exactly what we need to hydrate us whilst we're sunning it up by the sea or pool!

4. Waterproof mascara- Okay so we want to look as natural as we can, but a little make up never hurt anyone.  A little mascara goes a long way, especially when your skin is already glowing from the sun and moisturised from all that water.

5. Your summer drink- for me a refreshing cosmopolitan is never far from hand! 

London Fashion Week: NEWGEN

Not long till fashion week hits London!  Running from 13^th-17^th September, London fashion week is a major date for the diary (show schedule to be announced in July).

Among the many must see collections NEWGEN designers will be showing work again this year.  NEWGEN (standing for new generation) was created back in 1993 by the British Fashion Council and has become one of the worlds most internationally recognized talent identification scheme.  This scheme, sponsored by Topshop since 2001, allows some of the best up and coming British designers to show their work.

Each years lucky winners can either receive financial support towards show costs, the opportunity to use the British Fashion Councils catwalk space, a sponsored presentation or exhibition space, depending on which area they win.

I think this is a great scheme to help UK based designers get their work recognized around the world and open up opportunities with those in industry.

Here’s the British Fashion Council’s SS14 choice of winners:

Catwalk Sponsership:

1.     J. JE LEE

Born in Seoul, Korea, Lee studied womenswear at Central Saint Martins and has spent the last five years working as a senior pattern cutter.  On the British Fashion Council website is describes her working style as ‘chic, minimalist and modernist tailoring’ with her trademark piece being ‘embossed details on solid fabric’.  It’s said her ideal client is ‘a modern woman who is concerned with looking sharp in a uniquely feminine way.’

2.  

LUCAS NASCISMENTO

Born in Bonito, Brazil, Luke graduated from London College of Fashion in 2008.  The British Fashion Council has described his signature look as ‘silhouttes that are not typical of knitwear, using knit unexpectedly through careful yarn consideration and solid research’.  His ideal client ‘appreciates the detail in a garment and buys a piece for life; not for a moment in trend or time.’

3.     MARGUES’ ALMEIDA

This duo (Marta and Paulo) met at CITEX Fashion School in Portugal.  They then gained work experience at Vivienne Westwood followed by working at Central Saint Martins for an MA where they began working as a duo.  It’s said their clothes are ‘raw, young, effortless and lived-in’ with their trademark piece being ‘oversize, distressed denim T-shirt with heavily frayed edges.’  Their ideal customer would be a ‘quietly defiant women’.

4.     SIMONE ROCHA

Simone graduated from a BA in fashion from the The National College of Art and Design in Dublin in 2008, then from her MA at Central Saint Martins in 2010.  Her work is described as ‘Modern and strong yet romantic’ with her ideal client being ‘a woman who wants to wear beautiful things’.  Her trademark piece is ‘the floating perspex brogue.’

5.     SISTER BY SIBLING

This is a collaboration between Joe Bates, Sid Bryan and Cozette McCreery with ‘sibling’ meaning for one and one for all.  Before setting up Sibling the designers each worked with a variety of brands and design houses.  In their designs ‘you can expect colour, humour, sparkle and that everything will be knitted.’  Their ideal client is ‘a girl with a good sense of humour and a fun, happy attitude’ with their signature pieces being ‘classic, traditional knitwear desisns’.

6.     1205 

Designer Paula Gerbase studied womenswear at Central Saint Martins with experience from both Hardy Amies and her five years as head designer for Savile Row tailor, Kilgour.  They work with ‘restrained modern tailoring’ for ‘someone of substance’ and their trademark pieces are ‘considered, thoughtful pieces with a focus on fabric and cut.’

7.     NASIR MAZHAR

Nasir is a milliner who has trained with Jane Smith and worked for theatrical designer Mark Wheeler.  His signatures are ‘the box peak cap.’

8.     SOPHIA WEBSTER

Sophia, a shoe designer, graduated from the Royal College of Art in 2010 and has since been working as a design assistant to Nicholas Kirkwood.  Her signatures are ‘single soles, feminine lines and strong silhouettes’ with her trademark design being ‘the Aztec open-toe bootie.’

9.     LIAM FAHY

Whilst studying footwear at DeMontfort University, Liam was awarded the Linea-Pelle footwear design award and the Drapers Footwear Designer award of the year then after graduating he won the first ever Fashion Fringe Accessory Award!  He also worked with Rupert Sanderson before setting up his own brand.  Liam’s trademark piece is ‘”The Charlotte” in satin or java print’ and says he designs ‘anything that makes a woman look and feel sexy.’  His ideal customer is ‘intelligent, confident and sophisticated.’

Personally I think this all sounds very exciting and I cannot wait to see what all these up-and-coming designers bring to our catwalks!      

More of the same?

Barabara Hulanicki brought mini skirts and psychedelic patterns/colours to our high streets when she founded Biba in 1960’s.  She has had a huge influence on the world of fashion and still today, aged 77, is a consultant for retailers in both the US and UK.  Last year she won an award for her services to the fashion industry.  However, she has recently commented that she feels todays modern woman dresses badly, claiming ‘There’s too much interest in clothes now and it makes women dress less well.”  Hulanicki thinks in today’s society everyone looks the same and “people are too concerned about what’s fashionable”.  She even says about herself that “It's very difficult to know what to wear now.  That’s why I always wear black.”

Part of me sadly agrees, it seems everything has already ‘been done’ and not much stands out anymore.  I have recently become increasingly bored with the high street as al the garments seem to be repeated from store to store.  When you look back in history at all the ground breaking fashion movements, it seems this generation has not been involved in such drastic fashions and plays it all pretty safe – or maybe everything just seems safe these days.

When talking to my mum/gran about their relationship and past with clothing compared to their views on today’s fashion it seems that they relish a time when they had to spend a bit more money and a lot more effort searching out somewhere special to buy something precious, whereas today all the shops are too large, too similar and they feel swamped by choice and disappointment in the disposable quality.  Lurking in mum’s wardrobe are some items from a past which feel more special- some fabulous liberty shawls and silk scarves, a Chanel style raw silk jacket, a pair of beautifully cut out fine wool Escada trousers.  Beautiful things with precious memories attached to each purchase.  

Abercrombie and Fitch gets the cold shoulder

The Abercrombie and Fitch CEO, Mike Jeffries, has recently been caught under fire after his comments (made back in 2006) towards the brands target audience.  He said, “We go after the cool kids.  We go after the attractive, all- American Kid with a great attitude and a lot of friends.  A lot of people don’t belong [in our clothes], and they can’t belong.  Are we exclusionary?  Absolutely.”  This statement is still reinforced today with clothes sizes only going up to a womens size 10 and mens 34- not even available for half the nation!

Of course the recent uproar about these comments have had a huge affect on the brand, and righty so in my opinion, with a drastic loss in its first quarter earnings- falling by 17 percent. 

Abercrombie and Fitch has seen a range of protesters expressing their outrage.  A change.org petition is just one of these examples, calling on the brand to ‘stop telling teens they aren’t beautiful; make clothes for all teen sizes’, with 72,455 signatures currently in support of the campaign.  Another creative demonstration comes from a man named Greg Karber who has begun his own campaign ‘FitchTheHomeless’ which involves giving out the brands clothing to the homeless.

Celebrities have also jumped in on the act, trying to encourage people to boycott the brand through social networking sites.  Actress Kristie Alley started the movement with her immediate response to the comments and revelation that the brand sells no clothes above a measly size 10, claiming her children ‘will never walk into those stores because of his view of people’.  Miley Cyrus have promised to burn all her Abercrombie and Fitch clothes, and Ellen DeGeneres has produced a sketch comparing the brand’s clothes to baby clothes (viewed over 3 million times on youtube.)  Personally, I think it’s about time we all stood against this kind of attitude- Abercrombie and Fitch clothing is hardly exciting and looks over priced; not exactly fitting with what the ‘cool kids’ would choose.   

Happy Anniversary Chanel

Happy 100 years Chanel!  What a wonderful 100 years it has been, and no better way to celebrate than with a short film made by Karl himself, starring Keira Knightley as Gabriele ‘Coco’ Chanel alongside other famous actresses.

The cute ‘Once Upon a Time’ film gives us a twenty minute look into the beginning of Chanel and how the strong minded Gabrielle slowly but surely built up her clientele from her minimalist hat shop (quite a contrast to the heavily embellished styles of the current Chanel collection!)

I think this lovely little black and white film is a great little watch and re-afirms Chanels position in the fashion world- really making us reflect on the label’s look and heritage.  The film has a modern and fresh feel, but reminds us of Chanel’s heritage and how far their influence continues to grow.

The only critism I can give is I think the film should have been in French throughout, just to maintain their “je ne sais quoi”.