Is Paris on the move?

Paris Couture doesn’t just conjure up images of beautiful clothing, but also of an imagined Parisian lifestyle created from visits, romantic films and beautiful photography.  Buying into Parisian couture houses is not just about the clothes (lucky you) or the perfume, lipstick or nail polish, it’s also about buying into a little bit of Paris and its lifestyle, whether realistic or idealistic!  However in reality not all Paris couturier houses are based in Paris or even France.

Let’s take Céline for example: This French couture house, founded in 1945, is now run under the creative direction of Phoebe Philo and is based in London today.  The revived brand emphasizes a polished, elegant look which fits the chic Paris style – but is it becoming more British?  Does the fact that it is not being produced in Paris mean it is no longer the real thing?

Moving on to Yves Saint Laurent, now known as Saint Laurent Paris, and we see another example of Paris Couture stepping outside French borders.  Since 2012 the brand has been run under Hedi Slimane who rebranded the company as Saint Laurent Paris- yet has her design studios in Los Angeles!  YSL took inspiration from Paris subcultures, with Yves often breaking the rules in fashion - but how can the brand claim the same origins if it is no longer located among the Paris subcultures? 

Call me a purist, but I like the idea that if you are buying from a French fashion house, the designs will come from that country and as much of the brand as possible will be embedded within the culture of that country.  I know various elements will be drawn from all over the world to bring the final product into being, but for goodness sake... the French have always sought to protect their language and their produce, to maintain their proud heritage and maintain quality standards.  Legislation means only bubbles fermented in Champagne can be called Champagne; the famous brandy Cognac is another example of strict control guaranteeing a particular level of quality.  So please, s’il vous plait, let’s keep those images of Paris and the fabulous history of its fashion houses central to the future of Paris Couture and bring these fashion houses home.  Merci bien.  

//Photography by Norman Parkinson 'Cardin Hat over Paris' 1960