The black and white of the catwalk

Supermodel, businesswomen, philanthropist and wife of David Bowie, Iman, has called for designers to start using more black models, saying it’s time to protest against those that don't by any means possible.   Starting her career back in the 80s, Iman feels designers have become less open to using multicultural models.  This can be backed up by the 2% drop in black models being used during New York City fashion shows this year in comparison to last, with only 6% of models being black.

Iman says “It feels to me like times need a real hard line drawn like in the Sixties, by saying if you don’t use black models, then we boycott.  If you engage the social media, trust me, it will hurt them in their pockets.  If you take it out there, they will feel the uproar.”

It seems a shame that it such changing times we seem to be going backwards.  Looking back to the 60’s, Saint Laurent was labeled ‘The House of Love’ for promoting the use of black models in his shows, so what’s happened?  I think it’s time we saw a bit more variety in our fashion casting!  

Is Tom Ford making another comeback?

Earlier this year Colin McDowell gave a talk to us Ravensbourne students, when he shared his thoughts on Tom Ford’s loss of power and relevance within the fashion world.  However, it seems that Ford is not completely out of the picture.  Not only has he just opened his first store in Sloane St, but it is rumoured that he is planning to have over a hundred stores world wide by the end of the year!

Ford has also introduced a new cosmetics line… for men!  After the success of his womenswear cosmetics, the new collection will stock mens cleanser, eye treatment, purifying mud mask, moisturizer, bronzing gel and concealer.  With Marc Jacobs also joining the act announcing their unisex products in their new line, it seems the market for men’s grooming products is growing, I myself am not fully convinced.  Are our men really ready for cosmetics?  And more to the point are we women ready for it?

Much as I like men who look after themselves and care for their appearance, I get the moisturizer, I’m okay with the mud mask, but concealer and bronzing gel are a little too much for me.   

I asked my dad his thoughts on the subject- he thinks men are becoming more and more age conscious and equally ‘as vain as women’ and therefore more inclined to use more male grooming products.  However, he too has not succumbed yet- and thank goodness too.  The thought of my dad using bronzing gel, with concealer dabbed under his eyes, sends me into a fit of laughter/fear for the future.

As for Tom Ford, do we think these moves will assure his popularity?  Are we ready for the jet set Gucci style back in our stores, a long with our fully made up men or is it all a bit too much? Perhaps time to tone it down a little Tom.

Geek Chic - watch this space

So Yves Saint Laurent’s CEO, Paul Deneve, will be leaving the brand in order to move to Cupertino, California and work on ‘special projects’ for Apple.  Rumours are that Apple intends to create ‘wearable technology’ and are currently developing the ‘iWatch’- a watch that will effectively put an iPhone on the users wrist.  By bringing in Deneve, Apple believes the watch will have design appeal to compete with high-end brands such as Rolex!

Before Deneve became CEO of Yves Saint Laurent, he had been CEO of Lanvin and Nina Ricci.  It is said that whilst at Yves Saint Laurent he doubled their revenues thanks to his expert marketing and brand image.  This man knows what he’s doing when it comes to marketing wearable luxury goods.

 

In terms of the fashion industry does this mean that a push towards wearable technology?  It will be interesting to see how designers react to this product and if it influences trends in the wider fashion field.  Could be weird, could be wonderful!

Sunspel - selling heritage

Have you go two minutes? Sunspel, a British clothing label, has recently released a short film called 'A Day in the Life of a British Clothing Factory'.  Have a look.  It's a real feel good film which shows exactly what its title says and is a brilliant reminder of the manufacturing base we still have in this country and demonstrates beautifully the sometimes forgotten relationship between what we wear and the lives of the people who actually sit down and make our clothes. 

Its great to see a real workplace in action, with women interacting as they weave, cut, sew, press and finish Sunspels products.  The way one woman puts down a tissue cover on a garment before putting the lid on its box reminded me of a child lovingly sent off to school!  It made me feel guilty about the clothes I had casually dropped on the floor last night and stood on this morning.  In these disposable times this film is a timely reminder of the range of skills and dedication that real people put into the clothes we buy.  Take two minutes to enjoy it. 

The medium of the moment

Fashion and film seem to be popular partners at the moment, with three new releases to look out for.  Firstly, we have a four hour documentary on Karl Largerfeld called ‘Fashion and Religion’, to be released on September 7^th, which makes comparisons between fashion and religion.  Secondly, Mui Mui are to show two new fashion films at the Venice Biennale, both these films will focus on the roles of women and debates on the subject will follow.  This all sounds very exciting – popcorn at the ready!   

The Global Market

In an age where we can purchase anything, from any country online and get it shipped over to our homes, why is it that we Brits are paying up to 40% more for American fashion? 

It appears brands such as J Crew, Ralph Lauren, Abercrombie & Fitch, American Apparel and even Crocs are charging us 40% more than the same products cost in America.  Apparently this is due to trading costs in the UK however, if they are selling the products online then that extra cost is not needed?   The question I’m thinking is if the cotton wool is being pulled over our eyes?  If we are purchasing online then I think we should be paying the same price for the product globally! 

I don't know if ‘trading costs’ is meant to cover some sort of import tax or subsidize their shops or if this is just opportunity to make more money out of us Brits.  But I do think that if we are a global market, we should be shopping at a more comparable price.  So do I go and get a cheap flight to the USA?  Nah, that will buy me a lot of other good brands right here.