Up and Down on the Highstreet

It seems the success of fashion on the highstreet is very up and down at the moment!  One minute we’re hearing good news about Britain looking up and being the centre for new luxury brands, then we hear all the bad news about designers going down the pan.  The latest bit of bad news is that design company Nicole Fahri has gone into administration with more than 100 jobs at risk;  part of the latest wave of retail downfalls along with brands Dwell and Modelzone.

Many people assume designers are still involved in their own outlets, this is not the case with most – and Nicole Fahri is a case in point.  She has not been involved for some time now.  The label has six stores, 10 concessions in department stores and sells to stores such as John Lewis.  Although French Connection originally founded the brand in 1982, in 2010 it was sold for £5m and since then had two separate equity holders.  However, good news is that Nicole Fahri is rumoured to want to buy the label back herself!  Similarly, the Dwell chain has recently been bought out of administration by its original founder Aamir Ahmad, from which 23 stores are expected to reopen and 150 jobs saved!

So perhaps this is the answer!  Designers stepping up and taking back their original brands- I like it.  As a customer, knowing the designer drives the brand can only be positive.  Good luck Nicole and can we start with a good sale to get some of your investments back?          

The Last Frame

Bert Stern, self-taught American commercial photographer, died on 26^th June 2013.   A contemporary of Avedon and Penn, his most famous piece of work was The Last Sitting; a huge collection of photographs of Marilyn Monroe he took for American Vogue just six weeks before her death and which he first published in 1982 and again in 2000.

Marilyn actually died in between the photography session and the publication of her photographs in Vogue, which may be why they selected pictures of her wearing a black dress.  What is interesting about The Last Sitting is that when he published the book he left in the images Monroe had discarded because she didn't like them.

So what is different about these specific images to make Marilyn physically scratch through them so that they would not be used?  Just as there are conspiracy theories around the circumstances of her death we can’t help but wonder if she damaged these images simply because they weren’t her favorites or if she felt they did not portray her as the perfect Hollywood pinup?  Would they have had a negative impact with her fans?  What do you think?  Can you see the difference in these comparable images?  Personally, I think that one of the strengths of The Last Sitting is that it gives us an insight into Marilyn’s perspective of herself.  Many of us do not like our own photographs, is this because we see ourselves so differently from the images in front of us? I think she had the right to do that as we all feel the pressure to project the most positive images of ourselves that we can.  But all said and done there doesn't seem much difference between the images she liked and disliked.  

Welcome to our new shopping meccas

Apparantly Regent Street and Conduit Street are set to become shopping meccas of our capital, if not the world, with new arrivals set to arrive later this year. 

& Other Stories has already landed, but now Regent Street is looking forward to the American brand J Crew opening their flagship store- the first outside of North America!  This label is renowned for its style, quality and design, with fans such as Michelle Obama shopping regularly.  Lovers of accessories can look forward to the arrival of the French brand Longchamp, which is set to open on Regent Street soon, along with United Nude and Kiko Cosmetics; an exciting year of shopping to look forward to!

Over on Conduit street, the luxury brand Dior is set to return after opening their first London store 60 years ago!  Dior has agreed a new 10 year lease for a 3300 sq ft store for which it will pay £308,500 pa- the highest rent to date on this street!  Head of central London retail, Anthony Selwly, said “This new store will be in addition to the Dior shop on Bond Street.  Its arrival will galvanise Conduit Street and we expect to see several major brands take space in the location during the next 12 months.”

Onwards and upwards London!  

Take 5, Weekly Inspirations.

Finally summer is upon us!  Here's my top five must haves for besides the pool/beach:

1. The perfect swimwear- this is a must!  When wearing so little you have to make sure that what you are fits well and shows your body off in the best possible way.  No one wants any unfortunate slips or badly angled holiday shots!

2. Sunnies- along with your summer bag this is one of your main summer accessories.  Not only do they protect your eyes, but after a long night of partying they do a rather good job of covering those peepers.  Make sure you get the perfect shape and size to enhance your face shape.  For me it's all about the big round sunnies! 

3. Water- it's free and yet we don't appreciate it!  Drink it by the gallon if you can!  It improves your skin, your hair and promotes healthy weight loss and is exactly what we need to hydrate us whilst we're sunning it up by the sea or pool!

4. Waterproof mascara- Okay so we want to look as natural as we can, but a little make up never hurt anyone.  A little mascara goes a long way, especially when your skin is already glowing from the sun and moisturised from all that water.

5. Your summer drink- for me a refreshing cosmopolitan is never far from hand! 

London Fashion Week: NEWGEN

Not long till fashion week hits London!  Running from 13^th-17^th September, London fashion week is a major date for the diary (show schedule to be announced in July).

Among the many must see collections NEWGEN designers will be showing work again this year.  NEWGEN (standing for new generation) was created back in 1993 by the British Fashion Council and has become one of the worlds most internationally recognized talent identification scheme.  This scheme, sponsored by Topshop since 2001, allows some of the best up and coming British designers to show their work.

Each years lucky winners can either receive financial support towards show costs, the opportunity to use the British Fashion Councils catwalk space, a sponsored presentation or exhibition space, depending on which area they win.

I think this is a great scheme to help UK based designers get their work recognized around the world and open up opportunities with those in industry.

Here’s the British Fashion Council’s SS14 choice of winners:

Catwalk Sponsership:

1.     J. JE LEE

Born in Seoul, Korea, Lee studied womenswear at Central Saint Martins and has spent the last five years working as a senior pattern cutter.  On the British Fashion Council website is describes her working style as ‘chic, minimalist and modernist tailoring’ with her trademark piece being ‘embossed details on solid fabric’.  It’s said her ideal client is ‘a modern woman who is concerned with looking sharp in a uniquely feminine way.’

2.  

LUCAS NASCISMENTO

Born in Bonito, Brazil, Luke graduated from London College of Fashion in 2008.  The British Fashion Council has described his signature look as ‘silhouttes that are not typical of knitwear, using knit unexpectedly through careful yarn consideration and solid research’.  His ideal client ‘appreciates the detail in a garment and buys a piece for life; not for a moment in trend or time.’

3.     MARGUES’ ALMEIDA

This duo (Marta and Paulo) met at CITEX Fashion School in Portugal.  They then gained work experience at Vivienne Westwood followed by working at Central Saint Martins for an MA where they began working as a duo.  It’s said their clothes are ‘raw, young, effortless and lived-in’ with their trademark piece being ‘oversize, distressed denim T-shirt with heavily frayed edges.’  Their ideal customer would be a ‘quietly defiant women’.

4.     SIMONE ROCHA

Simone graduated from a BA in fashion from the The National College of Art and Design in Dublin in 2008, then from her MA at Central Saint Martins in 2010.  Her work is described as ‘Modern and strong yet romantic’ with her ideal client being ‘a woman who wants to wear beautiful things’.  Her trademark piece is ‘the floating perspex brogue.’

5.     SISTER BY SIBLING

This is a collaboration between Joe Bates, Sid Bryan and Cozette McCreery with ‘sibling’ meaning for one and one for all.  Before setting up Sibling the designers each worked with a variety of brands and design houses.  In their designs ‘you can expect colour, humour, sparkle and that everything will be knitted.’  Their ideal client is ‘a girl with a good sense of humour and a fun, happy attitude’ with their signature pieces being ‘classic, traditional knitwear desisns’.

6.     1205 

Designer Paula Gerbase studied womenswear at Central Saint Martins with experience from both Hardy Amies and her five years as head designer for Savile Row tailor, Kilgour.  They work with ‘restrained modern tailoring’ for ‘someone of substance’ and their trademark pieces are ‘considered, thoughtful pieces with a focus on fabric and cut.’

7.     NASIR MAZHAR

Nasir is a milliner who has trained with Jane Smith and worked for theatrical designer Mark Wheeler.  His signatures are ‘the box peak cap.’

8.     SOPHIA WEBSTER

Sophia, a shoe designer, graduated from the Royal College of Art in 2010 and has since been working as a design assistant to Nicholas Kirkwood.  Her signatures are ‘single soles, feminine lines and strong silhouettes’ with her trademark design being ‘the Aztec open-toe bootie.’

9.     LIAM FAHY

Whilst studying footwear at DeMontfort University, Liam was awarded the Linea-Pelle footwear design award and the Drapers Footwear Designer award of the year then after graduating he won the first ever Fashion Fringe Accessory Award!  He also worked with Rupert Sanderson before setting up his own brand.  Liam’s trademark piece is ‘”The Charlotte” in satin or java print’ and says he designs ‘anything that makes a woman look and feel sexy.’  His ideal customer is ‘intelligent, confident and sophisticated.’

Personally I think this all sounds very exciting and I cannot wait to see what all these up-and-coming designers bring to our catwalks!